TheHaflinger.com

Well, I just changed teh oil with a new filter as well. I might install a gauge too. I agree on the high revs possibly dislodging something. Granted, super hard to tell if there was anything blocking anything. Probably not going to take the oil pump apart since intermittent oil pressure loss wouldnt...

Ok, so following up here. I let a kid drive it and told him not to take it out of K gear. Well, kid and "he" being the combo, he put the governor to work. After which, we went back to oil light on. Drove it to work today and put a gauge on it. Nothing at idle. 40psi at 2k rpm. So, did an o...

The repair manual might as well be a colouring book written by drunk monkeys. Do you have the parts catalog that shows all the parts? That was really helpful for me. Have you tried disconnecting the linkage and engaging 2nd manually to eliminate anything outside of the gearbox?

Well, when I put the rocker covers back on, they were tight. So I suspect that maybe heat cycling combined with a cork gasket are the reasons why it started leaking. The leaks didnt start for a good while after I did the valve adjustment. Ja, Im happy it was an easy fix! No on to the winch installat...

Updates!! So, idk what was up. Maybe a stuck relief valve or something. Took it to work this morning to perform some tests. Everything worked normall and light worked as it did. oil leaks? Well, I didnt know you need to retorque the rocker covers after a valve adjustment. Loose as hell. Leaks resolv...

I really dont know. I mean, I work on cars for a living and it seems baffling to me as well. The leaks do not explain the amount of loss and there is not enough smoke to indicate as such. Maybe a little blue smoke on start up after sitting, but nothing crazy. what is this plug in the bell housing yo...

Ja, I have all those. The workshop manual is the biggest joke of all manuals Ive ever read, haha! I usually only refer to it for data like points gap, valve lash, and stuff like that. Trying to decipher sentences from it is ridiculous. I mostly rely on the parts diagram for info.

Thanks John. I will probably start by fixing the leaks and perform an oil change. I had no idea 1200 mile intervals were the thing. Interesting about the pressure relief valve. I didnt even think of that. If the light still comes on after the oil change, I will be checking pressure next and if thats...

So, I put a BN2 in and of course it requires proper voltage to start. This leads to last weekends situation. Engine at operating temp, but holding high rpm for a while (10 mins or so) to get the heater started. Oil level was full prior to this. Today, started it up and the oil light is now on at idl...

Ja, I double checked and its not welded like I thought. It has the bolts. I should probably install it as I think not having it there last summer was contributing to my heat soak conditions I was experiencing after driving for a while.

Ok, got it up and running. ended up routing the exhaust out of the passenger door since I had no tubing suitable to route it to the wheel well as intended. I can say this is going to work very well!

AustHaflinger wrote:

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Garry

So, I looked at this flap the other day and I swear its welded stationary. I did notice it was painted red which I didnt see before. I will take a closer look.

The problem is that there is no flap on the door. Even on the donor haffie.

The one at the oil cooler need the cover removed, right?

as a subnote relating to the mention of needing jigs, those are only for rebuilding and if you are crafty, you dont need those either. Ive had tow of these gearboxes apart and reassembled them fine without jigs. Being careful and employing forethought about everything is key.

The original Haflinger had a flap on the rear hatch which could be put up or down as required, down to increase the cold air intake to the engine bay when it is hot and up to reduce the cold air intake and make the engine take slightly warmer air from with in the engine bay to blow over the cylinde...

Ja, I see those gaps widen at the doors the faster I go, haha! My cab cover only covers the front two seats and I have a canopy for the rear, so I suspect its going to get pretty toasty up front!

It only attempts to run for about 30 seconds and then shuts off. I suspect its a voltage thing. So, Im a little scurred to fire it up in the haffie without something on teh exhaust outlet for now

Thanks for all the pictures everyone! Thats helpful!

Good to know the heater doesnt care about pipe length. Im not worried about it rusting. Im probably going to make the exhaust tubing stainless steel anyway. Likely will finish it up with a false floor too.

Here is what I have going on right now.

Ok, back to this. I found another heater in another bus I have. Its a BN2. I also found the bracketry to mount it. So, where it is now, I have the OE vent thingy that goes on the end of the heater for distributing the heat. I attached the defrost vents with aftermarket bits. Wired it all in. Just ne...

Same issue with mine. Same vendor. I told him about it and sent him pictures. He is probably still depleting what he had. here is what I did: