TheHaflinger.com

The problem is, that in the rear, the air is dusty because of the wheels running on sand or whatever. That's why on the so called "tropical version", the air intake is on the front, where the air should be cleaner. The cyclonic air filter is just a small add-on. If you had a "snorkel&...

Hi there, the cyclonic air filter sucks air through the three vents on the cylindric surface. This results in a swirl inside the cylinder. Because of the centrifugal force, particles are thrown to the cylinder walls and then fall down to the floor, while the cleaned air exits the filter through the ...

Sam, I personally don't think that adding a ~1 mm shim would be a good idea. The shim would be sandwiched between the flywheel, which is rotating at engine speed, and the main bearing, which is standing still. I am not sure if such a thin shim would have a long life under these conditions. By the wa...

Julian, thanks for having a look. I thought there would maybe be a Puch parts number with 9 or 10 digits, but it seems there is none. I'll have to do further research to get to know which parts number belongs to which camshaft type. My personal opinion would be to keep the engine original and use th...

One more question... Are there part numbers on the camshaft parts? I'd really like to find out which part number belongs to which camshaft type. It seems the information is not in the parts catalogue.

And is the tip circle of the big gearwheel 119.5 mm or 118 mm?

Kind regards,
Constantin

Hi Julian, I am not sure what camshaft was fitted to the Invacar engines, but you may check that as well. I agree that the toothing was possibly damaged by the axial play, but I also suffered from end float on my engine and the gearwheels came out like new. Maybe they didn't have to run for long und...

Hi Julian, very interesting pictures! Are the camshaft gearwheels still the original pair? I think there would be a number on both wheels which should read the same. I wonder what caused this destruction of the toothes. I think the crankcase on your picture is upside down, so the dents are actually ...

Hi Gary, my father restored a Haflinger from Great Britain which was originally beige. He also decided to go for the RAL 7032 and I am quite happy with the result. It is not a perfect match, but very close and I find that it looks more or less original. haflinger01.jpg haflinger05.jpg Regards, Const...

Hi Tiziano,

which version do you need? I think there exist two different ones, one with rib and one without:
Kind regards,
Constantin

Hi, First of all, I also don't know much about the distributor. I also found dirt and old oil in mine and cleaned it with a degreaser... zuendverteiler.jpg I did not disassemble the shaft and the centrifugal weights. The owner's manual says that if one is servicing the circuit breaker, the cams shou...

Yes, the website shows the whole reproduction platform, made of new panels. Compare e.g. these two pictures with the original parts:
Regards,
Constantin

Hi, the reproduction panels come from Austria, see for example: http://www.puch-haflinger.at/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=viewcategory&catid=2&Itemid=70 However if you have a close look at the panels, you will see a difference compared to the original. Especially the parts which...

Thanks David, looks like a Series II 700 APTL to me, not like an Army one.
But the vertical engine door has possibly come off an older Haflinger with raised air vent.

Hi there, I have seen this Haflinger on eBay in April 2004, it appears that it has since undergone some kind of "restoration". To bring it back to original condition, it certainly requires some work. uk74-01.jpg uk74-02.jpg I think that it is a 73 model, but the tyres are certainly not ori...

Hi David, thanks for posting the pictures. The one that is supposed to be ex Army looks more like a younger civilian Series 2 Haflinger to me, because it has the fuel tank under the passenger seat. No rear right seat possibly means that it has a PTO and hence a rack for additional equipment on the u...

David,

you are really doing a great restoration job! It appears you want to come very close to the original, which I personally like.
When do you post some pictures of the whole vehicle? Maybe you can do a quick "roll-out" from the garage this weekend?


Kind regards,
Constantin

Is it possible that the canvas is supposed to go between the guard plates and the horizontal frame part? This would be usual for most short cab versions (but e.g. not for the Swiss Army ones). One picture as an example:
Regards,
C.

I think the main problem why there are no reproductions sold is that there exist many different versions of canvas tops... short cab/full cab, SWB/LWB, sloped back versions, straight back versions, different colors and so on... Almost impossible to produce the right version in advance that can be so...

Sadly, the answer is simple: There are none. In my opinion, the best thing would be to have a good (=original) template and then try to find all necessary parts to have a new canvas top made by your local car upholsterer.

Kind regards,
Constantin

Hi, I put fluid rust remover (WD40 or similar) on the shaft/arm connection and then used a pull-off tool which was similar to the following: http://www.kukko.com/index.cfm/DE/products/3/431/kukko_128_kugelgelenkabzieher_baureihe_128 The original pull-off tool which is included in the SDP special too...