TheHaflinger.com

Thanks John and Garry. Another morning working with a mate, face mask on and trying to socially distance. Set it all up again. the stroke on the pedal /master cylinder was full but once again as we bleed the first rear wheel ( by hand , not with the gunson esii bleed kit) , the cylinder gradually lo...

IMG_20201227_174501966.jpg Hello and seasons greetings and best wishes for the New Year to everybody. About 3 weeks ago, I managed with the help of 3 mates ( socially distanced on each corner) to get the floor pan back onto the chassis after 15 months of strip down and rebuild. The floor pan had be...

Most things are coming together now with my the floor pan/bodywork, the engine and the chassis. Soon it will be time to put the engine back on the clutch housing/chassis. Then lift the floor pan/bodywork on to the chassis. Exciting times. I wonder if those with experience can give me some tips on th...

Thanks for that , Garry. I think its a idea to pursue. Certainly a lot simpler.
I used to have a 1949 series one Landy, quite some time ago. In my mind I thought the motor was mounted on the top of the screen, maybe wrong.
Is there washer pipe I can see there?
Best wishes for now. Jeff.

At last a result I am pleased with after a couple of months full on work building the front body work. I will go forward with this format to finish and register the vehicle and refurbish the Poly cab at a later date. So far all parts are interchangable. the poly cab is quite tatty and needs a fair a...

Thanks John. I see that you have done well to get the floor pan on Lurch repaired. The ply front on my rebuild, has a strong central web. All constucted of 25mm marine ply. Its the best you can get and is LLoyds approved , which means it is manufactured and tested to a high standard using only the b...

Having removed the poly cab during strip down and restore, I thought I would make a front in the other "option". The theory being, bolt on bolt off. Leaving the poly cab complete with the ability to change cabs without to much effort. There are some issues, like the dash trays and dash boa...

Thanks John, I had retained the original brake shoes as they still had lots of meat on them and gave them and the drums, a good clean with brake and clutch cleaner. I have replaced every thing else, Flexy pipes, metal pipes, cylinders. By process of illimination , I realised one of the new brake adj...

It was a year ago we collected my Haflinger from deepest Wales UK. The sad, unused and neglected vehicle came to a new home. I borrowed a Mini race trailer and loaded it on backwards. At that point it still had its polycab on. See picture. With the "deck" blasted, repaired and painted, I a...

Thanks John and Garry, I did have success this morning and got one done. As John suggested, I did not tighten up until all bolts were in place. As well as putting washers on with the nuts and not over tightening. I am hoping this will work for the other 3 yet to do. Then it will be putting the oil i...

It was November last year that I first posted about replacing the gaiters. I bought 4 new gaiter kits. I have recently begun to have a go at fitting them. Not doing to well at present, so maybe someone has some tips. At first I tried silicone mastic on all joint surfaces. I also used slightly longer...

Dave, ogdenenterprise, Although I have done a lot of work dismantling the Haflinger and starting to rebuild it, I paid to get the floor pan shot blasted. Then I found a guy who is basically an artisan metal fabricator who was up to the challenge of replacing the rot and strengthening the floor pan a...

Yep, two new plates to form double skin and welded shim/spacers in between where the steering fixes. Its difficult to make the plates look ok unless you take the trouble to use the "fluted" type original plating with the raised sections. But on top, the fabricator made the raised sections ...

Hello Calicobramble, thank you so much for making my day, A floor pan in worse order than mine!
I have managed to find an artisan craftsman welder person who has just finished mine, with a lot of attention to structure and strength. He even folded up the new rails.
Good luck with the challenge.

Simon, not sure if this picture helps. I took this off a spare engine that came with my Haflinger. I believe it was originally from an invicar.
Jeff.

Hello, I have just about finished the engine rebuild and need to do the tappet/valve adjustment. I see in the 1962 manual , they all should be .15mm. I see on else where they should be .15mm intake and .20mm exhaust and else where in the forum anything in between! So my Haffy is 1967, marked MK2 but...

Having posted several times about the problems I have been having with the fulcrum pins on my sad 1967 Haflinger rebuild, I feel I should continue the saga to the end . The end being, new ones fitted and working. That will be part 3. The Haflinger had obviously had a hard life mainly off road from n...

Thanks John , that explains a lot. Sounds like I may have to look for a ball bearing on the garage floor. I attach a photo of the fuel tank and one of the nearly finished Dash. The floor pan goes off next week to a body shop for the foot well area to be rebuilt. The new exhaust valve guides and valv...

Hibernated Haffy Has Hassles Hagain. Well its not to bad but I need some imput from the knowledgeable folks on this forum again. 1. I am just refurbishing the fuel tank, during lock down, whilst waiting for bits, which seems fine, a few rust spots but quite solid. I did have to scrape off a load of ...

Yes Garry I did try with some 2.5 mm flexible wire (6x19) as I have done plenty of rigging in the past, even the odd wire splice, but I could not get the weave tight enough and there was the issue getting the finished length correct. A guy in Alaska posted that he had done it but had made a special ...